Much Has Changed

Winegrowing in Russia has a long history. From the 18th century onward, it developed primarily in Crimea and in the south, and later in the Krasnodar Region. In the Soviet Union, quantity and low prices were what mattered. The 1985 anti-alcohol campaign destroyed thousands of hectares of vineyards – a rupture whose consequences remained noticeable for a long time.

After perestroika, Russians discovered the wines of Europe and the New World while travelling. Imported bottles dominated the shelves, and Russian wines were regarded as second-rate. It was only from around 2010 onward that a new generation of wineries emerged, consistently focusing on quality, terroir and distinctive styles. For climatic reasons, they are concentrated in the south: Krasnodar Region, Crimea and Rostov.

The Black Sea coast of Krasnodar is now both a tourist showcase and a leading winegrowing region. Nearly half of Russian wine production comes from here, along with a large share of its sparkling wines. Sunshine, diverse soils and dedicated “new wave” winemakers provide the basis for wines that are attracting increasing international attention.

Château de Talu

Located in Gelendzhik, Château de Talu is one of the region’s best-known estates. Founded in 2005, planted with vines from France and shaped by French oenologist Frank Duseigneur, it sustainably farms more than 180 hectares. Cabernet Sauvignon takes the leading role, complemented by Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, as well as local varieties such as Krasnostop and Saperavi. Château-style architecture, a restaurant, tasting rooms and the premium line “Southern Vertical” make Château de Talu a symbol of modern wine culture and the new wine tourism.

Sikory

The family winery “Sikory” makes an even more pointed case for just how ambitious Russian wine can be today. The striking building, with panoramic windows and a gravity-flow cellar, was named by The World’s Best Vineyards among the 100 best wineries in the world. The vineyards lie in the cool Semigorye Valley between Anapa and Novorossiysk. Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon are the flagships; just under 50 hectares are under vine.

Owner Alexander Sikorsky openly takes German Riesling as his benchmark. In Forbes’ ranking of the best Russian wines, Riesling Sikory placed second in 2023; in 2025, a classic Riesling sparkling wine joined the range after 50 months on the lees. Riesling in every form – still, sparkling, dry, sweet – is the estate’s calling card. “Sikory” is run by a team in which two female oenologists play a central role – perhaps one reason for the wines’ finesse.

Schumrinka

Another face of the new wave is shown by the “Shumrinka” winery in the wine village of Gay-Kodzor. Here, a tent stands in the middle of the vineyard, and 56 hectares are planted with 17 grape varieties. Alongside international varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir, the rare Serbian Palava and Malvasia are grown, with Malvasia having become a speciality of the estate. The premium line “Petrikor” plays on the smell of damp earth after rain; Malvasia Petrikor 2024 smells of white rosehips, the Pinot Noir 2023 of redcurrants – approachable, modern wines with a clear signature.

Tolstoi

For many connoisseurs, Alexey Tolstoy is regarded as one of Russia’s most exciting winemakers. He is responsible for the wines of “Galitskiy & Galitskiy” in one of the country’s coolest terroirs and, at the same time, for the small estate of just five hectares in one of its hottest. The comparison in the glass shows how precisely he works with climate and soil; his Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2022, unfiltered and matured in both French and Caucasian oak, is an example of the new ambition.

The Great Russian Wine

Despite many success stories, the situation remains fragile. Climate change does not stop at Russia either: mild winters, late frosts, extreme precipitation and periods of drought affect work in the vineyard. Added to this are uncertain legal frameworks and rising taxes; from 2026, VAT and alcohol tax – especially for wine – are set to be increased again. At the same time, geopolitical tensions make access to oak barrels and equipment from abroad more difficult.

And yet: in 2023, around two million people visited Russian wineries. State support programmes and initiatives such as “The Great Russian Wine” (not found) help to break down prejudices and build trust. The “new wave” of Russian winemakers shows that, despite all obstacles, an independent, quality-oriented wine culture is emerging – on the Black Sea, in the shadow of the Caucasus and beyond old clichés.

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Photo credit: Winery Sikory