The Composer of Provence Wines
When Catherine Huguenin looks across the cellars of Estandon Vignerons in Brignoles today, an entire world of aromas, textures, and colors lies at her feet. For more than 25 years she has been Maître de Chai – cellar master of one of Provence’s largest producers, responsible for some 20 million bottles annually. What may sound like sheer mass production is, in reality, an exercise in precision: like a perfumer at her organ of scents, Huguenin composes from nearly 300 tanks the cuvées that capture the elegance and diversity of Provence in a bottle.
Her path to wine was anything but predetermined. After studying Fine Arts in Cherbourg, she discovered the world of wine almost by accident – through an introductory oenology course organized by the city of Bobiny. “It was like a lightning strike. I knew immediately: this is it!” recalls Huguenin. At 26 she embarked on a new beginning, earning a BTS in Viticulture and Oenology in Tournon and gaining hands-on experience at Domaine de Triennes. For an artist, mathematics and chemistry were daunting challenges, but she persevered – and found her calling in wine.
After harvest work at Domaine de l’Aumérade she joined the ICV in Brignoles, and soon after the cooperative Uvivar, the forerunner of Estandon. A temporary replacement position turned into a permanent role in 1997. Leading an all-male team at first, she quickly earned respect through expertise, stamina, and sensory sensitivity. Today she heads a team of ten and shapes a portfolio that represents Provence like few others.
Rosés hold a special place in her work. Estandon is one of France’s largest rosé producers, yet volume is only one side of the story. “An assemblage is never routine,” Huguenin stresses. “Each vintage is different, and the art lies in creating harmony from those differences.”
In recent years she has sharpened Estandon’s profile with organic cuvées and innovative projects such as Le Vin Nu, a sulfite-free wine, and Terres de Saint Louis, a pesticide-free rosé. Under her direction, the cooperative combines its rich heritage with forward-looking practices that resonate with an increasingly discerning clientele.
Her passion remains undiminished. “I love the sensory work of blending,” she says. “It is always a discovery, because while much is repeated, no vintage is ever the same.” For Huguenin, wine is more than craft – it is a continuous lesson in nature, in people, and in herself.
Today Catherine Huguenin is far more than the first woman to take on the role of cellar master at Estandon. She is the conductor of a vast orchestra, harmonizing the voices of hundreds of growers and terroirs into a multilayered symphony – one that carries her unmistakable, feminine touch.
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Photo Credit: Catherine Huguenin, Estandon Vignerons
