Arnaud and the ‘Blanc Fumé’
FRANCE (Loire) – We find ourselves in the promised land of Sauvignon Blanc, the Pouilly Fumé appellation, situated along the Loire River, directly opposite Sancerre. Wines from this region must be crafted exclusively from 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes. What sets these wines apart is a unique terroir, characterized by limestone, flint, and marl. However, only here are the soils interspersed with flint (French: silex, English: flint), whose high silicon dioxide content—including fine quartz grains, mogánite, and opal—has led to the iconic identity of the ‘Blanc Fumé’ from Pouilly Fumé.
On the heights of Saint-Andelain, in the finest vineyards of the region, Robert Poirier first planted Sauvignon Blanc vines and founded Domaine Bouchié-Chatellier at the beginning of the 20th century. Over time, his son-in-law Jean Bouchié took over, followed later by Jean’s son Bernard Bouchié. Today, the fourth generation, led by Arnaud Bouchié, is at the helm of the estate.
Arnaud’s Story
“My great-grandfather was one of the first to cultivate Sauvignon Blanc in Pouilly Fumé. He was committed to improving quality through innovation and modern technology while respecting traditional methods,” says Arnaud Bouchié, who studied oenology and business in Burgundy and is now responsible for the estate’s wine distribution. His father, Bernard Bouchié, a man with a deep passion for both vineyard and cellar, has long since entrusted his son with the reins. Bernard began his career as a young man in Champagne and later earned his oenology degree in Montpellier.
“Our domaine has always been family-run. Our wines carry the signature of our fathers and grandfathers, embodying knowledge passed down through generations. Some of our oldest vines are nearly 70 years old. Since the 1930s, we have been cloning new vines from our own historic vineyards. These vines, combined with the unique terroir of Saint-Andelain, give our wines their unmistakable character,” says Arnaud Bouchié, as we savor a chilled glass of ‘Argile à S.’
The Sauvignon Trio
Today, Domaine Bouchié-Chatellier cultivates 23 hectares of vineyards at nearly 270 meters in altitude, primarily south and southwest-facing, with partial cover cropping. The younger generation’s focus on quality over quantity is evident in their decision to produce only three wines:
La Renardière: Fresh, aromatic, and elegant, with vibrant citrus notes, a touch of herbs, and pronounced minerality. Full-bodied with a crisp texture and a well-balanced, fruity finish.
Argile à S: A cuvée from various parcels of the estate, marked by elegance and complexity. The modern label breaks with tradition, appealing particularly to young wine enthusiasts. Perfect as an aperitif or paired with light appetizers and vegetable dishes.
Premier Millésimé: A full-bodied, elegant Pouilly-Fumé with spicy aromas, concentrated fruit, and crisp acidity, supported by impressive depth and intensity.
The domaine places great emphasis on sustainable practices and follows an integrated approach to viticulture (lutte raisonnée). It is HVE-certified (Haute Valeur Environnementale), ensuring high environmental standards. The vines thrive in flint-clay and limestone soils, particularly on the slopes of Saint-Andelain, which impart structure and aging potential to the Sauvignon Blanc.
Chapeau! To This Aromatic Excellence. Chapeau, Arnaud Bouchié! A winemaker continuing his family’s legacy while preserving the character of these extraordinary wines.
When it comes to the refined aromatics and depth of Pouilly Fumé wines, there is no doubt that they rank among France’s most vibrant white wines. The Sauvignon Blanc from this region exhibits less aggressive notes and certainly none of the pronounced green, grassy aromas often found in New Zealand expressions of the variety. Instead, they captivate with lively fruit aromas of green apples and gooseberries, supported by striking minerality—an unmistakable combination that defines their unique identity.
Viticulture around Sancerre has a long history. The Romans laid the foundation, followed by Benedictine monks who cultivated vineyards extensively from the Middle Ages onward. Today, the Pouilly Fumé appellation encompasses seven villages along the Loire, stretching from Mesves-sur-Loire in the south to Saint-Martin-sur-Nohain in the north. While winemaking techniques akin to those in Burgundy are employed here, Pouilly Fumé remains unmistakably a child of the Loire.
A remarkable note from a taster at ProWein captures the experience of Bouchié-Chatellier’s wines beautifully: “Finally, a truly outstanding Sauvignon Blanc—a top-tier Pouilly Fumé that could only come from the Loire. Now I understand why the French are reluctant to let it leave the country.”
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Photo Credit (Titel): © Bouchié-Chatellier
Photo Credit (Text): @ Arthur Wirtzfeld
