A journey to a special place where Riesling meets Turkish cuisine and tradition embraces innovation
One of Germany’s most fascinating cultural landscapes lies along the Rhine: the Rheingau. On the southern-facing Hessian side, with a climate that borders on Mediterranean, historic sites steeped in legend dot the enchanting scenery for nearly 40 kilometers. Early on, the region’s potential for top-quality winegrowing was recognized. Today, its 3,000 hectares of vineyards—planted mainly with the noble Riesling grape—produce wines of world renown.
Traveling westward through the tourist hub of Rüdesheim, the Rhine takes a dramatic turn north into the castle-lined Middle Rhine Valley. Past the famous red wine village of Assmannshausen lies Lorch, a small town whose late Romanesque church is as remarkable as its quiet, poetic charm. But Lorch is no sleepy backwater—it marks the westernmost edge of the Rheingau wine region and is home to something truly unique.
In a tucked-away corner of Lorch’s old town, the Mohr Winery has cultivated wine since 1875 and is now run by the fourth generation. The name “Mohr” likely hints at Spanish-Moorish origins—a reference to a culture that once brought great advancements in art and science. Today, Mohr is led by Jochen Neher and his Turkish-born wife, Saynur Sonkaya-Neher, supported by a dedicated team and seasoned apprentice vintner Wolf Dio, who crafts his own excellent wines. Mohr has long embraced ecological viticulture and is a proud member of the ECOVIN association. In 2020 and again in 2024, the respected wine journal Selection named it Germany’s best organic winery.
From nearly ten hectares—many of them steep and labor-intensive vineyard slopes—the winery offers an impressive and expressive portfolio for every palate. The varied slate soils produce, naturally, superb Rieslings, but the estate’s Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc are equally captivating: clear, pure, and never lacking finesse. This holds true for both entry-level wines and the estate’s top bottlings. A standout: a 2019 Riesling Sekt brut nature from the “Lorcher Krone” vineyard, matured four years on the lees, which impresses with layered complexity, depth, and elegance. Deep knowledge and an intuitive respect for nature are core to Jochen Neher’s philosophy—and visitors can experience that firsthand on guided hikes through the steep slopes of Lorch.
Jochen Neher and his 90-year-old Riesling vines
Among the winery’s greatest treasures are the Rheingau’s oldest Riesling vines, planted in 1934 and still producing deeply expressive wines. 2024 marked the vines’ 90th anniversary—a perfect occasion for a vertical tasting spanning vintages from 2023 back to 2013. Each glass revealed consistent quality and vintage-specific nuance: quiet yet intense structure, yellow-fruited spice, peach and apple aromas, all carried by length and poise. Jochen Neher’s credo is clear: “To translate the history of our soils into wines that honor tradition, embrace the future, and reflect respect for nature.”
Saynur Sonkaya-Neher and her culinary artistry
The winery’s labels and interior touches hint at its second passion: the pairing of Oriental—specifically Turkish—cuisine with wine. Saynur Sonkaya-Neher, originally from Trabzon on the Black Sea, met Jochen at a wine tasting. Her warm personality wins hearts, and her cooking wins over every palate. Guests rave about her authentic dishes: delicately spiced lamb stew, stuffed cabbage-leaf Köfte, crisp filo rolls, and honeyed Baklava. These flavor-rich dishes are elevated by the estate’s structured Rieslings and elegant Pinot Noir Rosé. Saynur also leads popular cooking classes—no longer an insider’s secret—which explore the joyful harmony of wine and Eastern cuisine. One of Mohr’s wines, a lively and expressive white blend, is named in her honor: Saynur.
