The “Fränkischer Satz” as a Reflection of a Living Wine Heritage – A Tasting Report
In the shadow of the region’s flagship grape varieties – Silvaner, Riesling, and Pinot Noir – a fascinating treasure has quietly reemerged in recent years: the historical diversity of grape varieties once united under the name Fränkischer Satz. While the term may sound like a specialty from Vienna or Burgenland to modern ears, it was in fact the historical norm in Franconia – not the exception. For centuries, the gemischter Satz (mixed planting) was the backbone of viticulture in the region: an interplanted and co-harvested mosaic of grape varieties within a single vineyard.
The “Alte Fränkische Satz” – Genetic Diversity in Vine Form
In the so-called Alte Fränkische Satz (Old Franconian Field Blend), a single vineyard often contained more than a dozen varieties: Weißer Heunisch, Green and Yellow Silvaner, Weißer Lagler, Adelfränkisch, Hartblau, Grünfränkisch, Fränkischer Burgunder – names now rarely heard even among experts. Yet this mix was far from random: it followed an agronomic and oenological logic. The diversity of ripening times, weather resistance, aroma profiles, and physiological ripeness parameters helped create harmonious, stable, and age-worthy wines – built on natural resilience and complex taste rather than monoculture precision.
All varieties were harvested, pressed, and fermented together – a historical “terroir cuvée” driven not by varietal purity but by empirical knowledge and microclimatic intuition.
From Loss to Rediscovery
With the modernization of viticulture, the move toward single-varietal plantings, site-specific classifications, and increasing market pressure, the Fränkischer Satz almost disappeared. Many of its constituent varieties were considered “unmarketable,” “low-yielding,” or simply “lost.” But since the early 2000s, a counter-movement has been gaining ground: dedicated winemakers, scientific projects (notably at the Bavarian State Institute for Viticulture and Horticulture in Veitshöchheim), and growing interest in biodiversity, soil health, and climate resilience have revived the old field blend as a topic of renewed relevance.
The Modern “Fränkischer Satz” as a PIWI Project
Today, the Satz is experiencing a true renaissance – in two distinct forms: On the one hand, traditional projects are reviving historical grape varieties (e.g. Schloss Sommerhausen, Bürgerspital, Weingut am Stein); on the other, new PIWI-based plantings reinterpret the mixed-field concept with fungus-resistant varieties. These contemporary Sätze include grapes such as Calardis Blanc, Souvignier Gris, Cabertin, Johanniter, and Muscaris – typically planted as a “vineyard mosaic,” blended into a “PIWI-Satz,” or vinified individually for sensory evaluation.
Josef Engelhart – The “Satz Whisperer”
A joint tasting with my colleague Rudolf Knoll, led by Josef Engelhart* from the Viticulture and Oenology Department of the Bavarian State Institute in Veitshöchheim, offered a rare and highly insightful glimpse into this dynamic field.
* Josef Engelhart is a trained viticulture technician at the LWG, specializing in varietal diversity, PIWI development, and historical field blends. After completing his winemaking apprenticeship and technician studies, he worked for over 15 years as a breeding technician at the renowned Julius Kühn Institute before joining the LWG in 2001. His core expertise lies in ampelography – the identification, evaluation, and selection of grape varieties, particularly historical and fungus-resistant types.
Engelhart represents “tradition with system”: he bridges historic grape diversity with modern requirements such as resilience, sustainability, and climate adaptation. His work aims to tap into the “genetic reservoir” of old vines for the future of viticulture – while also exploring the sensory potential of PIWI blends to shape new and exciting wine styles.
Asked which grape varieties we need for the future, Josef Engelhart responds: “We need vines that can handle drought stress and water scarcity – and still guarantee aromatic precision under hot conditions.” He adds: “The vine is a child of the sun – it loves the slope and hates the wind.” This sums up his guiding principle: ecology, climate adaptation, and terroir awareness.
Tasting Notes – My Observations
2023 Weißer Heunisch
… Glass: straw yellow
… Nose: restrained; hints of hay, nuts, subtle yeast
… Palate: fresh, firm, high acidity, mineral, lean
2023 Weißer Lagler
… Glass: deep straw yellow
… Nose: apple, mandarin, herbs
… Palate: soft, rounded, medium acidity, fine creaminess, gently aromatic
2024 Grüner Silvaner
… Glass: pale yellow with green reflections
… Nose: fine herbal notes, slightly nutty
… Palate: mineral, lightly salty, delicate acidity
2024 Gelber Silvaner
… Glass: golden yellow
… Nose: ripe pear, quince, herbs
… Palate: structured, smooth, with subtle grip
2023 Grünfränkisch
… Glass: pale yellow with green reflections
… Nose: apple, pear, citrus
… Palate: fresh, linear, fine acidity, light salinity
2023 Adelfränkisch
… Glass: amber
… Nose: quince, muscat, smoky
… Palate: powerful, full-bodied, deep, with a gentle touch of residual sweetness
2023 Alter Fränkischer Satz
… Note: Due to an engaging discussion on the Adelfränkisch – a grape worthy of a Grosses Gewächs designation – I forgot to jot down full notes. From memory: restrained overall, acidity-driven, complex in character
2024 Fränkischer Satz (PIWI)
… Glass: bright golden yellow, slightly cloudy
… Nose: blend of citrus, herbs, apple, muscat
… Palate: fresh, juicy, spicy
2022 Fränkischer Burgunder
… Glass: ruby red with pink hues
… Nose: cherry, herbs, subtle nutty tones
… Palate: firm, austere fruit, moderate acidity
2020 Hartblau
… Glass: deep violet
… Nose: elderberry, olive, smoke
… Palate: rich in tannins, powerful, with cool freshness
Aurum (balsamic sweet wine)
… Glass: intense golden yellow, amber
… Nose: apricot, honey, orange, almond
… Palate: concentrated, fresh acidity, elegant balance of sweetness and acidity, silky finish
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Photo Credit: Arthur Wirtzfeld