Liliac – The Vinous Bat
Its strength: a proud 14.5% ABV. Its status: Private Selection. Its impression: powerful, enduring, extraordinary!
ROMANIA (Batoș) – From Transylvania, the mystical land of the “Siebenbürger Saxons,” a region steeped in history and transformation, comes this exceptional red wine. A wine that not only captivated me but whose character is truly worth telling. Its deep, dark color in the glass immediately stands out. On the nose, notes of plum, tobacco, and sandalwood. On the palate, velvety and full-bodied, underpinned by delicate tannins and a peppery finish. Yet, it is not overwhelming but exudes a refined elegance—born from rugged nature, echoing with distinct resonance. What is surprising? This is a Pinot Noir, yet one with a robust character, barely comparable to its classic Burgundian counterparts. Its name, like that of the boutique winery it hails from, is Liliac (Romanian for “bat”). Its strength: a proud 14.5% ABV. Its status: Private Selection. Its impression: powerful, enduring, extraordinary!
The Story of a Vision
In the early 2010s, Vienna-based architect and real estate investor Alfred Michael Beck embarked on an adventure in Romania. In the midst of an untamed landscape, sheltered by the Carpathian arc, he founded a winery. Initially, his goal was to produce affordable wines for export—a strategy that likely would not have been successful in this region. Here, in the sparsely populated north of Romania, where winemaking has flourished for centuries, lay untapped potential that Beck did not immediately recognize.
The turning point came with the arrival of Miron Radic, a Bosnian Serb who grew up in Austria. A man with a keen instinct for wine and a sharp sense of the market—both analytical and passionate about challenging norms and exploring new possibilities. Radic wrote his bachelor’s thesis on wine marketing, focusing on Liliac. He quickly realized that Romania was already a haven for mass-produced wine. Many investors had purchased vineyards without a clear strategy or the necessary expertise. The market was dominated by large wineries and cooperatives with little interest in high-quality wines.
Radic persuaded Beck to take a different approach: instead of producing bulk wine, Liliac should stand for quality and individuality. Wines that are fresh, dry, and modern—tailored to a young, discerning audience. Beck saw the opportunity and promptly offered Radic the position of managing director. Radic accepted and began implementing Liliac’s new vision in 2016.
Liliac’s Rapid Rise
Today, Liliac is one of Romania’s most exciting wineries. With around 50 hectares, it operates as a boutique winery, focusing on distinctive wines. The emphasis is on white indigenous grape varieties such as Fetească Albă and Fetească Regală, known for their pure fruit and fresh elegance. Traditionally, this region has been dominated by white wine, a legacy of the Mosel settlers who arrived between the 12th and 16th centuries, bringing their viticultural expertise to Transylvania.
However, Liliac also ventures into red wines. Local winemakers often advise against cultivating red grape varieties here, but this only motivated Radic further. He planted Fetească Neagră, Merlot, and Pinot Noir, proving that Transylvanian reds can meet international standards. Today, the Red Cuvée, a blend of Fetească Neagră and 30% Merlot, is the winery’s most successful red. Equally impressive is Liliac’s single-varietal Merlot, which was named “Best Red Wine of Romania” in 2015.
Its quality and individuality make it a rarity—reflected in its price: the “Private Selection” costs around 40 euros, making it one of Romania’s most expensive red wines. And yet, it has found its enthusiasts—those who prioritize the experience in the glass over just the price tag.
Beck and Radic have now firmly established their target audience. Liliac wines are highly sought-after in Romania, with two-thirds remaining in the country, while the rest is exported. Their success is built on a combination of quality and strategic marketing. International grape varieties such as Merlot, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir are particularly popular among young Romanian consumers. Many perceive indigenous varieties as relics of the past—yet, ironically, these are the very wines that spark growing curiosity abroad.
Mission Accomplished!
Alfred Michael Beck and Miron Radic have written an impressive success story in just a few years. In 2012, Liliac produced a modest 12,000 bottles—today, that number exceeds 400,000. Vineyards have been leased, and partner growers have been trained in strict quality standards. Domestic demand is immense, and the pressure to supply sufficient wine is ever-present.
Perhaps that is what makes Liliac so fascinating: a winery born from a spontaneous idea, which, in just a few years, has become a rising star in Romania’s wine scene. Who knows what surprises Beck and Radic still have up their sleeves?
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Photo Credit: © Arthur Wirtzfeld
